From the field.

Rejected the first two homestays near Urgos. Too close to the road. Found a shepherd's hut at 3,800m with a view of the entire valley. This is the campsite. Pilot trip approved for August.

Found alternate route from Khanjar to the glacier that avoids the washed-out bridge. Adds 2 hours but the views of Menthosa are worth it. Tested river crossing - manageable in June, dangerous in July.

Met Dorje, a Lahauli shepherd who knows every trail in this valley. He's willing to guide groups. His family runs a small dhaba in Urgos - food is exceptional. Buckwheat pancakes and yak butter tea.

Arrived. 14-hour drive from Manali. Road condition: terrible but passable. Lahaul side is fine, Miyar road from Udaipur is rough. Starting route survey tomorrow from Shukto village.

Burnout Recovery retreat venue confirmed. Tested the Tirthan Valley homestay for 4 nights. Water is clean. Food is excellent. Signal is zero - which is the entire point.