Where we are right now.

Rejected the first two homestays near Urgos. Too close to the road. Found a shepherd's hut at 3,800m with a view of the entire valley. This is the campsite. Pilot trip approved for August.

Found alternate route from Khanjar to the glacier that avoids the washed-out bridge. Adds 2 hours but the views of Menthosa are worth it. Tested river crossing - manageable in June, dangerous in July.

Met Dorje, a Lahauli shepherd who knows every trail in this valley. He's willing to guide groups. His family runs a small dhaba in Urgos - food is exceptional. Buckwheat pancakes and yak butter tea.

Arrived. 14-hour drive from Manali. Road condition: terrible but passable. Lahaul side is fine, Miyar road from Udaipur is rough. Starting route survey tomorrow from Shukto village.

Burnout Recovery retreat venue confirmed. Tested the Tirthan Valley homestay for 4 nights. Water is clean. Food is excellent. Signal is zero - which is the entire point.

Razdan Pass opened yesterday. First vehicle through. The valley is still empty - no tourists. Habba Khatoon peak visible from every angle. Found a gujjar family willing to host travelers.

Arrived Dawar village. The silence is remarkable. Snow-capped Habba Khatoon to the east. Military checkpost was smooth. Met Bashir, a local teacher who doubles as an informal guide during summer.

Third visit to Spiti. This time tested the Langza-to-Komic walking route instead of driving. Takes 4 hours but the fossil fields and the silence make it the highlight of the entire journey.

Pilot trip completed. 4 travelers. Sleeping Buddha sunrise on Day 3 was clear - all four peaks visible. The new tea house at Sandakphu is better than the old one.

The valley floor is carpeted in flowers. Nobody here. Literally zero other trekkers. Found a Naga hunter who explained the traditional route from Viswema side.

Found the grandmother. She's 78, still cooks every morning, and agreed to host a cooking class for groups. Her Chettinad chicken uses 23 spices.

The white desert at full moon is otherworldly. Confirmed with the Mutwa craft village for future group visits. They'll demonstrate rogan art and bandhani tie-dye.