Testing the Forgotten Trail to Shoja
Shoja, Himachal Pradesh20 February 2025

“I almost didn't write about this trail. I found it by following a shepherd who didn't speak Hindi — just pointed and walked. The trail led through a forest so dense that sunlight only hit the ground in scattered coins. At the top, there was a meadow with a single oak tree and a view of the entire Tirthan Valley. I sat there and wrote in my notebook: 'If I tell people about this, will it survive?' I still don't know the answer. But I think the right people — the ones who'd carry their trash out and leave the meadow exactly as they found it — deserve to see it.”
- Uddip
There is an ancient high-contour trail between Jalori Pass (3,120m) and the mountain village of Shoja that does not exist on any modern topographic app. The elders in the Seraj valley refer to it as the 'Gaddi Rasta' - the shepherd's highway used for generations to migrate flocks between the lush alpine meadows of Great Himalayan National Park and the lower winter pastures of Mandi.
I received the first lead from an old tea vendor near Jalori temple who gestured with his pipe toward a jagged ridgeline: 'My grandfather used to walk that ridge with five hundred sheep before the motorable road was cut in the 1960s. The stones are still there if you look under the ferns.'
Attempt 1 (October): The trail branches off behind a small stone shrine about 2 km east of Jalori Pass. It drops rapidly through virgin deodar forest before hugging a narrow, exposed knife-edge ridge with the Tirthan River basin yawning 1,200 meters below on the left and the Sainj Valley on the right. The exposure is breathtaking. However, at kilometer 6, we encountered a 100-meter section where a recent monsoon cloudburst had sheared away the entire hillside into a vertical shale cliff. Without fixed lines, it was impassable. I GPS-tagged the coordinates and retreated.
Attempt 2 (November): I returned with Raju, a seasoned local shepherd from Shoja whose family grazed this exact ridge forty years ago. Within thirty minutes of reaching the washout zone, Raju guided us 150 meters up a deer run into an ancient cedar grove. The bypass route was not only completely stable underfoot, but it opened onto an unmapped sub-alpine meadow carpeted in dry golden tussock grass with a crystalline freshwater spring.
Route Metrics: 12.4 kilometers total distance. Elevation change: -420m loss, +180m undulating gain. Total moving time: 5 hours 20 minutes for a moderately fit cohort. Trail difficulty: Moderate, with two brief sections requiring confident footing on loose scree.
Conclusion: This route is now fully mapped with redundant GPS waypoints every 400 meters. It avoids 100% of vehicular road walking and will serve as the premier hiking day on our Seraj-Tirthan autumn journey.
Logistics observations
2
Routes tested
3
Homestays evaluated
Total route: 12.4 km. Elevation: -420m net drop, +180m gain. Duration: 5.5 hours at a steady pace. Water points at 4km and 8.5km. Terrain: forest loam, shale scree on ridgeline, exposed high-contour traverse.
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